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This page is an
archive of interesting (At least I think they are) bits of information
that have been posted in mail groups and news files. No attempt
has been made to capture entire threads.
Some have been edited to make content clearer out of context
and for subject content.
Contents:
- Origin
of the Stromberg carburetor by Paul Richardson
- SU Carburetor modifications by
Kas Kastner
- Intake air
flow
- Head flow and roller rocker arms discussion
- Dyno
tuning SU velocity stacks by Greg Solow, Kas & others
- The intake manifold
balance tube by Kas
- Electric
fuel pump by John Herrera
- TR
Valve springs,
They are not what they used to be
- TR
lifters, They
are softer than they used to be
- Checking cam
timing in the engine (TR2-4A)
- Adjusting
valves
- Push rods Shorten
tubular push rods to maintain rocker arm geometry when shaving
a head
- TR
2-4A stopping push rod tube leaks by Jack Drews
- TR2-4A
valve guide clearances
- Compression
affects how well cams work
- TR2-4A timing
chains and tensioners How to make aftermarket ones
last like the factory ones did
- How to identify
an original Kas Kastner racing cam
- Distributors and
timing
- Distributor
tune up parts, problems & tricks
- TR3-4A heads,
setting them up for hot street
- Raising
compression for additional HP, A discussion mostly by Jack Wheeler
and Kas Kastner
- Getting heads
to seal, Figure 8 and head gaskets
- Chrome on chrome and getting
the most out of rings Chrome rings with chrome cylinders & getting
the most compression out of rings
- Pistons
- TR
cranks, About
TR racing cranks
- TR
six cylinder cranks, They can go fast too
- Cryogenic
Treatment by Susan Kaher
- TR
engine bearings, They are not like they used to be
- TR
2-4 oil pumps, They don't make them like they used to
and a work around
- Racing with lightened
connecting rods,
Beware the oil hole
- TR6
flywheel &
clutch, lighter is better
- TR6
flywheel attachment for high RPMs
- Fixings
for aluminum flywheels by John Woods
- TR6
close ratio gear boxes, How to tell if you have one
- TR
transmission housing cracking, high power at race flexing
- A trick
for easier TR gearbox install
- Using
a locker or limited slip for racing
- Setting up a
diff w ithout the pinnion depth tools by Jeff Quick &
Greg Lund
- TR3 suspension
changes,
going beyond adding the factory optional suspension parts
- TR4
suspension changes, The wrong parts can get you into
trouble
- How
to determine the proper tyre presure for your (race) car
- Brake
pedal sometimes is low on first press but otherwise is always
high
- Sorting out the
different calipers used on TR3 through TR4A brakes
- Replacing
the front brake piston seal on a TR4
- Hydraulic
hoses, SS vs rubber by Michael Porter
- A method
of fitting connectors to braided hydraulic lines by
Bill Babcock
- Castelated
nut does not line up by Kas Kastner
- First Triumph
TR race
- 50's & 60's
racing vs vintage racing, Some history & thoughts
by Kas Kastner & others
- Origins of the
TR logo by Lion F Guyot
- Why
do we put ourselves through the h**l of restoring a car by
TeriAnn Wakeman
- Descriptions
of common tools A light hearted look from Peter Egan's "Side
Glances"
- Black
oxide Vs plating
Black oxide bolts are used in the TR2 through 3A boot to secure
the rear wings
- Lap belt mounting The
proper location for the mountings, by William G Rosenbach
- Shoulder restraints by
Bill Rosenbach
- Chasis Dynos What
are they good for
- Castrol gear oils From
Castrol
- Suitable Castrol
engine oils for our Triumphs (Flat tappet
engines) From Castrol
- Wiring
the TR3A windscreen wiper motor - The workshop manual
is wrong for the TR3A by Brent Smith
- Triumph
overdrive wiring, connecting and testing
- Automotive
relays, which pin does what (Bosch system)
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